Je vends ce
RAT SUB ZERO.
Pour ceux qui ne connaissent pas le Sub Zero était à la base une copie du Fender Blues Junior, bien faite, avec de bons composants mais bien mal assemblée. Je dis "était" car aujourd'hui les Sub Zero que l'on trouve en neuf sont vraiment pourri.
Le patron de RAT achetait des SUB ZERO, les démontait de A à Z et les réassemblait en les modifiant considérablement.
Voici la liste des modifs par RAT:
- Additional RAT Features and Modifications -
1. - 'OPR' - Output Power Reduction (Power Scaling).
2. - The Amp is completely Stripped and then rebuilt, making sure that all fasteners are Tight or Thread-Locked as required.
3. - Twin Rectifier System - The Mains Power Switch is replaced with a '3 Position' Switch offering the Standard 'Silicon Rectifier' -or- 'EZ80 Valve Rectifier' Operation. Center Position of the Switch is 'Power-Off'. The Valve Rectifier gives the Amp some Great 'SAG' - The Silicon Rectifier gives the Amp a Nice 'Tight' Sound. There is No 'Standby' Switch, this is not required Providing the Amp is First Switched 'On' to the Valve Rectifier Position.
4. - The HT Voltage (B+) is Spot-On but the Heater Voltage is WAY Too High - I have corrected that problem and the Heaters now run at 6.3vac, as they Should.
5. - I have done Several Modifications to the Power Supply - Increased the Smoothing Capacity for 'Tighter Bass' - Fitted a 'Safety' Resistor so that the Amp can Not hold a Lethal Charge when switched off - All of the Main Power Supply Resistors have been replaced with 'Wire Wound' or 'Metal Film' Components.
6. - All of the 'Tone' Capacitors have been replaced with 'Orange Drop' Parts. This gives the Amp much better definition. The Tone Controls Sweep from 'Zero-to-Max' on each Frequency.
7. - Full Lead Dress - All Transformer and Heater wires in a Valve Amp must be tightly twisted or they will induce 'Noise' into the Amp Circuit. Twisting all of the wires and placing them in the correct location does make this Amp quieter (No Background Noise - Buzz+Hum).
8. - The Standard Input socket is a Problem. It is PCB Mounted and made from 'Hard' plastic. The first time you 'trip-up' over your Guitar lead, you will destroy the input socket. It is then a Major job to replace the socket as the Amplifiers PCB must be removed. The Socket has been replaced with a Quality part that can be easily changed in about 5 minutes (if you ever need to change it).
9. - The Stock Amp is not Fitted with HT and Heater Fuses - It is Now.
10. - Preamp and PI Heaters Converted to 'DC' - The 2x Power Valve Heaters are 'AC'. This Stops any Hum and Buzz and also allows any Make of Valves to be used in the Amp.
11. - The Amp has been converted to 'Auto-Bias' - Class A/B. You will NEVER need to Re-Bias the Valves. Output is 15 Watts RMS - 22.5 Watts Peak Power.
12. - Boost Footswitch in Metal Housing with 3m Lead. A 'RED' LED Illuminates when the 'Boost' (Fender 'FAT') Circuit is Active.
13. - Full RAT User Manual detailing all of the Modifications.
14. - All Amps are 'PAT' Approved.
Les modifs les plus apparentes sont:
- l'OPR, power scaling, qui donne la possibilité de jouer l'ampli à fond (et là c'est vraiment bon, avec un "SAG" d'enfer, à un volume tout riquiqui.
-Footswitch pour le boost
-switch trois positions: off, rectifieuse à lampe, ou silicon. Ca donne deux voicing bien différents.
J'avais un Blues Junior, et j'avais demandé à RAT s'il était mieux de lui envoyer pour modif, ou de faire transformer un sub zero (même prix). Sa réponse:
"The Subzero Circuit is Exactly the same as the FBJ but with the RAT Modifications the Amp is better sounding (in my opinion) than the RAT FBJ . Thanks Andy"
Donc à l'époque j'avais vendu le BJ et fais faire celui ci....
Bref, du bla bla: donc un excellent Blues Junior like, pour le somme misérable de
300 euro port compris (et le port vu le poids n'est pas donné) . Oui je brade, mais vu le contexte actuel...
Excellent état, lampes y compris (peu joué au final, vu le bordel que j'ai à la maison)