les Rickenbacker sont prévues pour être réglées avec un manche bien droit.
Mais rien n'empêche de régler avec une petite courbure si on le souhaite.
On peut même régler un côté avec une légère courbure et l'autre côté bien droit selon la manière de jouer et le confort recherché.
De l'intérêt d'avoir 2 trussrods.
Quant au refrettage d'une Rickenbacker voici un extrait intéressant d'un post de Paul Wilczinsky sur Rickresource :
http://www.rickresource.com/fo(...)96821
"Ricks take a fair amount of fret leveling before needing a refret...some I've seen have been leveled three times.
Nine out of ten luthiers will try to talk you into keeping the fretboard unfinished, with just a dose of oil. This is either because they don't or can't do it properly, or think it's too much trouble, or think Rickenbackers are snob guitars, or any one of a dozen or more reasons. In the end, it either comes down to expertise or personal prejudice, or both. Note also that the majority of luthiers here in the States are, strictly speaking, repair guys, with little experience in building or finishing and exactly ZERO experience with Rickenbacker finishes.
The other one out of ten [luthiers] will be glad to refinish your fretboard--in nitrocellulose lacquer. This works OK, but is not "factory", if that's important to you. It will look and feel slightly different than an ex-factory board, and will not be as durable.
A Rickenbacker refret, done properly, involves removing the old frets (depending upon the instrument, binding may come off, too), removing the finish on the fretboard, checking the crown radius and correcting it, refretting and rebinding.
Then, the new finish goes onto the fretboard, after the entire guitar except the fretboard is carefully masked off. When I do this, I rough level the frets and bevel the ends before filling the fretboard and fret seams. Following this, there's lots of sanding and careful binding scraping before vinyl sealer is applied and once again sanded. Then two separate applications of varnish, sanded between. After the last coats of varnish have cured, the 'board is wet sanded with #1000 grit, frets are skinned of the varnish on their tops, final leveling is done, and the whole fretboard and frets, too, are polished on my buffing wheels. Result is factory-new look and function.
Rickenbacker frets are not finished like any other guitar's. They are leveled with a top surface that is uncrowned--essentially flat--which is why most buzz slightly when unamplified. The varnish applied to the fretboard and frets, then skinned from the fret tops before they are polished, also flows into the fret bases and around the ends, making them easy on the fingers. The only exceptions to this scheme that I've found are (of course) early acoustics like the Ken Roberts, which had non-RIC bodies by Kay or Harmony, early Combos with unfinished fretboards, and factory-built acoustics until 2006. These all had fully-crowned and finished frets, because of having unfinished 'boards--no varnish to provide fillets and an easy feel. C58 reissues and pre-'59 Capris had slightly flat-topped frets but no varnish, and more attention was given the fret ends. Over the decades, many of the old Capris were leveled and releveled, with the result that the frets are flat-topped to the extreme with very little fret height left, yet they still play exceptionally well when properly set up.
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"Yesterday today was tomorrow and tomorrow today will be yesterday"
