- Starfucker Inc.
-
Vintage Méga utilisateur
- #1485
- Publié par
Starfucker Inc. le 11 Avr 2009, 11:38
perso je jouerais au niveau des diodes, des Ge notamment:
Diode mods: The Muff contains 4 diodes, 2 pairs, in a known orientation that clipping and compression occur. Changing these diodes result in the change of the overal sound. Some examples:
*
Silicon diodes; normally, the Muff will contain 4x 1N4148 diodes (or similar devices). These silicon diodes provide smooth, tight compression and are used here as a reference value.
*
The 2006 NYC reissue models use 1N6263 silicium Schottky diodes. These diodes cut the sound less then stock silicons and add a bit less compression. Result: sound is less compressed, louder, tighter and will lean more to the treble side. Nice new approach to the muff sound.
*
Germanium diodes; germanium diodes cut the sound more and add a tad more compression to the sound. Result: sound is less loud, more compressed and a bit more gainy.Sometimes an octave effect can be heard. No germanium diodes were used in original Muffs.
*
LED's; LED's are also simple diodes. In the Muff they cut the sound even less then the Schottky's and add less compression. Result: more volume, less compression / less gain.
*
FET's / MOSFET's; these units can also be used as diodes when the drain and the gate are taken together. Sound is similar to silicons only a bit more smoother
*
No diodes; great trick! By removing the diodes from the unit no sound if fed back. Result: more volume (LOUD!), less compression, less gain and a more open (overdrive) sound. By removing only the first two diodes (of the first stage) the bass response of the unit will become much greater when Sustain increases (great for bass players!). This trick is also done to the Colorsound Supa Tonebender, which is basically a Muff with the first diodes removed.
Avec ceci en complément:
Emitter mod: The 2 gain stages of the Muff are tied to the groud by emitter resistors (R12 & R16). These are 390 ohms in Russian models and 100 ohms in NYC models (exact value can differ between models). Jumpering these resistors (replace resistors with a wire) will increase "gainy-ness" of the unit, enlarging em will reduce the "gainy-ness" of the unit. A potmeter can be used to control this value although I noticed I usually used only one setting.
Resistor mod: Each of the gain stages has a limiting resistor on the start of it (R8 & R13). These are 8.2k (8k2) or 10k in different models. By enlarging these values the unit gets more gainy.
Creamy Dreamer: basically the combination of the Emitter mod and the Resistor mod.
Diode mods: The Muff contains 4 diodes, 2 pairs, in a known orientation that clipping and compression occur. Changing these diodes result in the change of the overal sound. Some examples:
*
Silicon diodes; normally, the Muff will contain 4x 1N4148 diodes (or similar devices). These silicon diodes provide smooth, tight compression and are used here as a reference value.
*
The 2006 NYC reissue models use 1N6263 silicium Schottky diodes. These diodes cut the sound less then stock silicons and add a bit less compression. Result: sound is less compressed, louder, tighter and will lean more to the treble side. Nice new approach to the muff sound.
*
Germanium diodes; germanium diodes cut the sound more and add a tad more compression to the sound. Result: sound is less loud, more compressed and a bit more gainy.Sometimes an octave effect can be heard. No germanium diodes were used in original Muffs.
*
LED's; LED's are also simple diodes. In the Muff they cut the sound even less then the Schottky's and add less compression. Result: more volume, less compression / less gain.
*
FET's / MOSFET's; these units can also be used as diodes when the drain and the gate are taken together. Sound is similar to silicons only a bit more smoother
*
No diodes; great trick! By removing the diodes from the unit no sound if fed back. Result: more volume (LOUD!), less compression, less gain and a more open (overdrive) sound. By removing only the first two diodes (of the first stage) the bass response of the unit will become much greater when Sustain increases (great for bass players!). This trick is also done to the Colorsound Supa Tonebender, which is basically a Muff with the first diodes removed.
Avec ceci en complément:
Emitter mod: The 2 gain stages of the Muff are tied to the groud by emitter resistors (R12 & R16). These are 390 ohms in Russian models and 100 ohms in NYC models (exact value can differ between models). Jumpering these resistors (replace resistors with a wire) will increase "gainy-ness" of the unit, enlarging em will reduce the "gainy-ness" of the unit. A potmeter can be used to control this value although I noticed I usually used only one setting.
Resistor mod: Each of the gain stages has a limiting resistor on the start of it (R8 & R13). These are 8.2k (8k2) or 10k in different models. By enlarging these values the unit gets more gainy.
Creamy Dreamer: basically the combination of the Emitter mod and the Resistor mod.
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME
"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot
FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot
FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
